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Posts posted by jknightandkarr
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I will have to see if i can find some software to test the mics db freq responce. First then. Thanks for this info. While i know some electronics, audio for me is uncharted territory... I have an analog oscilliscope, freq counter and cheap saleae knock off, wonder if any of those will help..
Joe
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I have a cheap mic, can't afford much right now. Was looking up mic specs for stuff in like the $100 range and saw that they have 20hz to 20khz. I am in the process of rebuilding the mic as i had to tear it appart to fix a broken switch issue. Also hoping the filter(s) get out alittle back ground noise.
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Well, not worried about this anymore. Friend gave me a set of TurtleBeach Earforce X12 headset. However I do need help with a microphone. I want to make a filter for a 20 Hz and 20 kHz filter. I got the values for a low pass filter and a high pass filter, but more checking out told me that just hooking one filter into the end of the other won't work. I found something about a band pass filter, which according to the math, am not skilled enough to figure out on my own. Any suggestions on filter(s) for my mic?
Joe
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On 5/23/2019 at 11:27 PM, audioguru said:
Most of the spec's for the headphones are absolutely useless. The frequency response spec's do not say plus and minus 30dB which is horrible or plus and minus 2dB which is pretty good. Who cares about the length of the cord and the weight?
The important spec for the ear speakers is the impedance that you can measure with a multimeter but you didn't.
If the circuit is modern then it uses tiny little parts that are difficult to solder and unsolder.
I just copied the whole section, didn't feel like editing. Speakers are those really small cheap over ear headphone/small toy looking speakers, I think they might be bad...they measure 30 ohms. I didn't think they had that much resistance on them. Probly simpler to just buy a new headset n say heck with it..
Joe
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I can answer the 2nd question for you, as I have 2 3d printers, both having heated beds. The heated beds are required when printing with some kinds of filament, such as ABS plastics. If the bed is not heated to a certain temp n kept at that temp the print adhision may fail totally or even warp your print(s). So the beds will be needed in some cercomstances. Hope this helps. I think as for the voltage, I think most are 12v DC, atleast mine are.
Joe
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Ok, first I have a set of turtle beach ear force x11 gaming headset with the following specs:
Headphones:
- 40mm diameter speakers with neodymium magnet
- Speaker Frequency Response: 30Hz - 20kHz, >120dB SPL @ 1kHz
- Condenser Microphone Frequency Response: 50Hz - 15kHz
- Cable length: 16 ft. (4.877m)
- Weight: 6.4 oz. (233g)
In-Line Amplifier:
- Headphone Amplifier: Stereo DC-coupled, 35mW/ch, THD <1%, Frequency Response: DC - 30kHz
- Mic mute switch
- XBOX controller 2.5mm input jack
- Maximum analog input level with volume control on maximum setting: 2Vpp (700mV rms)
- 3.5mm plug for mic output
- 3.5mm plug for line input
- Weight: 1.3 Oz (36g)
- USB connector for power (5VDC @ <50mA max)
- Dimensions: Height .5in (1.27cm), Width 2in (5.08cm), Depth .75in (1.905cm)My idiot brother got ahold of my headset and not only ripped the wires loose from the controls output wires, but apperently also fried the controller... my question is, can anyone recommend circuitry to fix the mic and speakers?? Don't care about the controller port as I don't game online with xbox anyhow, so I only need the mic and speakers. I looked on project page, but since my knowlage of audio like this is non exhisting. any help is appreciated. Lucky for me the input side of wires is good, so I got a usb for power, mic plug and speaker plug. Meanwhile, going to try and see if I can locate scematics for the contoller. I know I can just buy new set, but I don't have much cash lately, so fixing them better option for me. Thanks.
Joe
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I am in need of schematics / service manual for a Sanyo VWM-710 vcr. I got hit by a power surge and now its non-functional. Already checked fuse, its fine, so I need something to help me locate the issue, I am not seeing any obvious issues. I know I can fix it, just need some help. Thanks.
Joe
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I hope this is the correct area, but I am looking for sources of bulk component supplies. The only one's that I know of are Digikey, Mouser and Jameco, 2 of the 3 of them have what I need but WAAAAAY too much, plus I don't need 250 or 400 or esp 800 count orders...... I need Blue 0.4" AlphaNumeric leds SMD or PTH don't matter, white would also work by just using a blue filter. Is there other sources of components. Radio Shack isn't even an option. Another requirement IS however a reliable source of them. I need multiples of 10 singles or 5 doubles, just as long as I have 10 digits. What I really need is 0.4" Alphanumeric Vaccume Flor Disp, but those are waaaaaay LOOOONG gone. For what I am doing blue is pretty much needed, green, which seams to be the only one I can get singles of, isn't the right color, nor would show behind a blue filter anyhow. Any suggestions on suppliers or sources of the leds I need?
Joe
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Ok, Thanks.
Joe
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Is this app still available? I can't goto the site at all.
Joe
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Sorry for the delay in the reply, haven't been on in quite a while. To answer your question, I have 3 different microcontrollers, The Basic Stamp 2, Arduino Uno, and the Propeller Microcontrollers. So far planning on using the Propeller, so there's 32 I/O pins, but I am concidering using shift registers to run the LEDs.
This link above is the compass I am trying to create. There's 4 larger leds arrays and the 4-10 segment bargraphs. I need the N/S n E/W LEDs to be able to light up for N, S, E, W, NE, NW, SE & SW, and the Bargrapgh LEDs Need to sequince up like in the link, but that's programming and so far not really relevent to this at the moment atleast.
Joe
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I am trying to make this KITT's dash compass andi have the leds and using a microcontroller to power them but need help on how to wire them so i use the least amount of conponents possable. I thought of darlington transistor ic's but on the 4 10 led bargraph onesi think both anode n cathode will need darlington transistors. 4 1 for either common cathode or anode and 10 more for the other lead for make the patterns. I might be able to use 1 darlington transistor ic to make the yellow triangle leds work using just 4 i/o pins, but i think i need 14 for the red bargraps whats the best way to wire the bargraph leds up? Thanks.
Joe
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Anyone?
Joe
According to estimates I need t to equal like 19.3 not 6.6
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Ok just to make sure i am doing this right on my Instek GOS-620 scope.
Volts= No divisions × volts/div x probe setting
My case v= 2.0 x 0.1 x 10 so v=2. Now freq is #of div/cycle × time/div i have t=6.6 x 50us=330us n freq=1/t or 1/330= 3.03 kHz buuuut the signal is the scopes 1kHz, 2Vp-p signal and my multifunction counter says1.04 kHz, so what am i doing wrong? I know having the counter i don't have to know how to calculate it but nice to know how. Thanks
Joe
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JoeFor PCB prototype and copy pcb, I strongly recommend pcbway(http://www.pcbway.com/q ).I have bought 5 pcs single sided pcbs from them with $17. As there's $5 discount, the total price is $13. The boards are pretty good with high quality. I revceived them within 5 days.
If you have boards, PCBWay also can design diagram and gerber files and Bom lists for you.
I checked that out n that will work PERFICT! Thanks!
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I take it this is a service you have? What are your costs?
Joe
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Yeah I hear it click off. I get very rair spikes going justr above 170, but only lasts part of a second.
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It clicks, no neon light, only a power indicator.
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Office gloss paper huh? Have to try it, providing my iron gets hot enough, I'll have to experiment. I use very fine steel wool to clean mine, I tried using rubbing alcohol to clean the board.
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Well after putting the probe from my digital bbq therm under my iron for a while I think I may know my problem, according to my BBQ therm, I top out most of the time at around 167 deg C & drops back down as low as 158 Deg C. Any suggestions?
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Tandy/Radio Shack have gone from the UK and Canada but still (as far as I'm aware) exist in the US.
As you probably know inkjet won't work.
A plastic rolling pin should be fine; it shouldn't melt as long as it doesn't come into direct contact with the iron for too long.
Yeah, Radio Shack is still in the US. Inkjet would work on the photo method I know, but not toner transfer, I did find some paper at Hobby Lobby called Foundation Paper, which I'm going to try, desolves in water in about 10 seconds. I'll stick with my wood peice. I don't want to risk ruining my rolling pin. It's my only one, is thin material (can be filled with water for weight) plus I like to cook, so I need it for baking.
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No RS components are a totally different company to Radio Shack, they are a British based company, Radio Shack is US. RS components are a high quality supplier, Radio Shack, which used to exist in the UK under the name Tandy, sell overpriced crap.
Yes, magazine paper works. I thought that the think paper used for RS component catalogues would be too thin for a laser printer but others have used it with no problem. I would generally recommend slightly thicker glossy clay coated magazine paper. From memory the paper used to print Tandy catalogues would have been perfect.
The actual optimum temperature varies with the type of toner you have, it's just that many people have found around 180 -
you need a proper understanding and also patience.
every time you change one or other item,then you will never know what mistake is being committed.
try to use magazine paper or the type of paper used by RS components catalog.
even text printed paper would work
the ironing should better be done at 170 to 180 deg Celsius , and never more than that.on a Philips make auto iron i am told that it works on polyester clothing. this setting may be valid for others also.
most important is the contamination free copper surface.and reasonably scrubbed by 3M scotch pad and washed and cleaned by a fresh paper napkin as cloth may gain contaminate it.
Magazine paper? I'm guessing you mean take a magazine appart & use the paper from there or use RS component cat, think that's radio shack, correct? As for the temp, thanks, I just got the cheapest iron I could find, but I got a digital BBQ thermomiter that will get me to that range, 170-180 deg C or 338-356 deg F, I'll start 175 C/347 F area. I'm using Grade #0000 or The Finest Steel wool that I could get to clean the boards, shines i& brightens t up real good.
Yes, temperature setting is critical. I found, that if it's too hot, the toner can smear and some of the magazine print can transfer, especially if too much pressure is used, too cool and the toner will never soften.
Yes clean the board until it's really bright and shiny.
Make sure that you don't touch the toner on the print-out: any grease on the toner might stop it transferring to the board.
Is it always the same part of the board which isn't transferring well?
I've found out that it can often be difficult to transfer around the edges, you should never track too close to the edge of the board anyway.
If everything else is right, then the chances are you're not applying enough pressure to all parts of the board. Try putting a rolling pin on the other side of the board, roll it back and forth as you iron, then repeat with the board rotated by 90
Need Heaphone/Mic Amp Circuitry
in Electronic Projects Design/Ideas
Posted
Ok will have to see if i can find anything on the mic for a part number. That should give a place to start.
Joe
Edit. Checked mic element, and not one single marking of anykind... don't even know who made the kareokie machine the mic came from. Looks cheap though. I doubt that my freq generator would help much, so I guess i will just replace the switch inside since it's broken and just use it as it is, till i can just buy a good one.