Alex Tsekenis

Google H-bridge, read the datasheets of the parts your mentioned and come up with a schematic that we can work on. Post it here

Try these guys: Avnet Electronics Marketing (Australia) Pty. Ltd. (Distributor, Allegro Products) 9B, 9-11 South Street Rydalmere NSW 2116 Sydney, Australia Phone: +61 2 9585 5511 Fax: +61 2 9585 5519 Web: www.avnet.com Email: [email protected] They might be wholesalers only, but they might point you to some retail shop that takes their stock from them. If this fails, post back and I will look up a big list of online suppliers that was posted on Elektor magazine recently.

I would recommend EAGLE in this case. http://cadsoft.de/

Here is how to connect the components. The wires dont need to be black and red, just make sure the positive (usually red) connection of the buzzer ends up to the positive connection of the 9V battery. The metal contacts can be aluminum foil, steel plates, copper pipes, anything. You will not be able to solder the wires on aluminum with standard solder.

The electronic components will be just two small DC motors and a two channel DC motor speed controller. The DC motors you probably have already, the speed controller you can buy online, just google for 'DC motor controller'. The difficult part will be to make the mechanical systems.

Is that a lot or is it just me? Have you tried replacing U5? Sorry, for some reason the forum removed my post notification from this topic.

I do not know the answer to this but it will probably be in this book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Handbook-Batteries-David-Linden/dp/0071359788/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1268218232&sr=8-2

Unipolar 15V should be sufficient assuming the totem pole drivers at the output of the isolators conduct good enough. Quantitative calculations will reveal that. The schematic of the system will need to show a reference of the supply to the isolators to the emitter of the igbts like it is shown in the black&white schematic for pins 5. You dont need an isolated supply for the low-side igbts.

Switch it ON and test the voltage across it.

Trim your fingernails man.

I think a hum based system will be more appropriate here. The surface is quite big, it will probably act as a proximity detector if you go with capacitance sensing.

Nice spot. I like the way you have arranged for the components on the DTE board.

Adding on Hero's post, they look like this: The second type is probably what you are looking for for your capacitance meter. You can buy them very cheaply at your local electronics shop.

No. Not even worth thinking about it.

kylefrink You can use your original 25V transformers connected in series like this: for a supply of +/-35VDC as Hero pointed out.