MP

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Everything posted by MP

  1. Does anyone have a schematic or link to site with information on true sine wave inverters. I keep finding sites with square wave and quasi-sine wave, but the true sine wave inverter designs seem to be a bit rare. I think that this would be a good item for our projects section. MP
  2. Inverter

    Bose: The buzz sound that you heard was caused from not using a large enough transformer. Freerider: There are much better inverter designs on the web, which will give you much better satisfaction. I would rate this project as a learning project for basic inverter design. Years ago, Delco introduced a very similar design to this one in the US which was mounted on the inner fender well of your car and gave you 120VAC to run appliances from your car. These were also very primitive and barely useful. However, they did sell a lot of them. MP
  3. Digital Oscilloscope with PIC18F2550

    For those wanting to see the original website and the author's Q/A for the project, the URL is here: http://www.semifluid.com/?p=15 PIC Code is in C but the hex is also provided. MP
  4. Please do not post IC requests to the Projects Q/A forum. It is for discussion of projects found on our site. I have moved this topic to the correct forum. MP
  5. Microphone Echo/delay IC datasheet.

    You won't get much resolution without specialized chips. Here is an article about a simple form of audio delay using 1 bit ADC. Perhaps this will help. http://www.elecdesign.com/Articles/Index.cfm?AD=1&ArticleID=8056 MP
  6. An LM7805 will work fine in your automotive application. You could also use a LM78L05 which has a smaller package. You will certainly need the capacitors on input and output. For the input, it depends on how clean the DC12 is. I have never seen a car generate a real clean DC voltage, so I would recommend that you go with a fairly large value on the input. On the output, you will want a 0.1 uf in parallel with a larger value such as 10 uf, both bypassed to ground. If you don't have a 10 uf, use anything from 4.7 to 100 uf. This is not a critical application and you have a lot of latitude to play with here. For your application, I doubt that you will see any difference. Also, I don't mean to change your thoughts on the design, but if you are only using the voltage as a trigger, you could also use a comparator chip to do this. MP
  7. this is the most dead forum ever

    I see posts on a daily basis.....where are you looking? MP
  8. digital voltmeter using icl7107

    There are a few specific applications where you can use the ICL7107 on a single 5 volt supply instead of dual +/- 5V supply. These specific conditons are discussed in the data sheet. Check the data sheet to see if your specific application will work with this voltage configuration. It is not hard to generate the negative supply. You can generate the negative voltage with just a feww added components on the board. MP
  9. TJ, Correct on both questions. I recommend that you stay under 5 mA. I normally use 5V through a 4K7 ohm resistor as a parallel port pin high. For best results you do not want to float the pin in any state. You should insure it always has a 0V or 5V level by tying the port pin high or low. Otherwise it might float into an unstable voltage and report incorrectly. Additonal note: The car battery is not a true 12 volt source. Rarely will you see a good automotive battery read 12 volts. It is usually closer to 14. You want to make sure you do not exceed the 5 volts to the parallel port. Add a zener diode for protection if needed or use a 5 volt regulator. An opto-coupler would also be an alternative. Exceeding 5 volts to the parallel port could damage it. MP
  10. When you use your resistive divider to drop the voltage down to 5 volts, you just need to select values of resistors to limit the current. This is basic ohm's law. V/R. Was this your question or did I misunderstand? I am not sure how you intend to monitor status by using one 5 volt pin. As an interface to the parallel port, you could use an LM3914. This would give you the resolution you need. There are also many other ways to proceed. You need to convert from analog to digital to read anything useful from the parallel port. MP
  11. NEW GUY NEEDS HELP

    The Basic Stamp is just a PIC with the crystal, an eeprom, and some transistor drivers for serial comm on a board that is sold as a module. You can duplicate the pieces and breadboard all of your projects or make them on vero-board for much less. The good side of buying a Stamp is that Parallax gives you lots of support. Since you have invested in the Stamp, I recommend that you look at the schematic for your kit and make up some boards with a 20 MHZ resonator and a PIC 16C57-20. If you don't need the EEprom for a project, leave it out of the design. Only incorporate into the design the resistors you need for the input and output ports. In your kit, you have a surface mount chip. You can purchase the DIP version and use a socket. You can also socket the resonator if you want to experiment with different speeds. Here is a link to the pdf manual to what I think might be your kit. http://parallax.com/dl/docs/prod/boards/HomeWorkBoardManual-v1.2.pdf If you use the schematic as a starting point to build up your own personal project boards, you won't be limited to the "one at a time" limitations of your stamp. Hope this helps you. MP
  12. Free sample chips!

    Jack, Everyone gives away the assembly code programming compilers. There are also many free C compilers, but they are very specific to the brand of chip you use. For example, you would need a different compiler for PIC than you would need for AVR if you write in C. Actually, you would use different instructions in asm, too. The reason is that the different micros have different instruction sets and different hardware, etc. The micro manufacturers seem to cater to different parts of the world. AVR is easy to get samples in the US whereas it is hard to get free samples in some other Countries where PIC is easier to get for free. Just go their websites and ask. If you can get free samples, they will put a distributor in touch with you. MP
  13. Gas detector

    Here is a link to the manufacturer's website that makes the sensor in ante's link. All of the spec sheets are here. This is a figaro sensor. Good quality sensors. You can get different sensors for different applications, but you need to look at the application notes since they do not all have the same type of output. http://www.figarosensor.com/gaslist.html MP
  14. Making DAC with 0808

    Just use R2R ladder and an output buffer or op-amp. MP
  15. Free sample chips!

    You don't need a programming board for Atmel AVR. Just make a programming cable and use one of the free C compilers found on the web. MP
  16. synthesizer problems

    Topic moved. Posted in wrong forum. Projects Q/A is reserved for discussion of projects in this site's project section. MP
  17. have you simple digital volume control

    Here is a digital volume control from our site: http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/audio/010/index.html You can also see other projects from this site by pressing the blue link at the top of the page titled "Projects" MP
  18. PIC12f629 + motor

    Please post a drawing of your setup. Are you trying to power the motors directly from the output port? If so, you need to compare the current rating of the motor with what the PIC can provide. Did you mean you have an LED in series with the motor, drawing away some of the very little power provided by the output port? Try removing the LEDs. A transistor on the PIC output port pin is usually required, depending upon the motor. If removing the LEDs does not help, you need to add a transistor. Of course, this is all without seeing your schematic. There might be other reasons in play. MP
  19. LED pulser help

    Your LEDs are pulling too much curent for this little transistor. Since we do not know the built in resistor value and the specs on these LEDs it will require a little research and calculation of your own. If you do not have this information, you can remove the LEDs one at a time on your bench to see how many you can actually fuel from this circuit. As mentioned above, do not be surprised if you have burned out the transistor and need to replace it. I think your L272 op-amp combination is ok since you have tested it to work with only one LED. Basically, you are drawing too much current with the added load of more LEDs. Remember that even though they will all take the same voltage, you need to add up the current used in all the branches of your circuit. In this case, you have several branches where the original circuit had only one. You can either re-design this circuit or you can eliminate some LEDs and build more than one of these circuits to sit side by side when you determine how many of your LEDs it will actually power. MP
  20. led matrix 8x8

    I don't know why you posted this question in the Projects Q/A section. This is a microcontroller question and not a project from this website. I have moved the topic to the correct forum. MP
  21. For this distance I would recommend a power amp as audioguru has suggested and I recommend a horn instead of a speaker. MP
  22. 16 or 24 Cannel Gang Switch

    How many stations or momentary push buttons are needed? How much voltage and current being switched? MP
  23. keron, I'm not sure how much sound you require but you could inexpensively add an LM386 after the 555 and before the speaker. MP
  24. Yeah, sometimes we just need to hear soemone say what we already know to kick our thinking into gear. ;D Sounds like a nice project. Good luck with the outcome! MP
  25. LED pulser help

    You should post a link to the project. There are a few different blinking LED projects in the projects area. Also, provide a sketch of the changes you have made. I am sure you will get better help if you provide these items. Otherwise, it is hard for everyone to visualize the problem. MP