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The Nic Nac Tic Tac Crystal
Radio Set
Introduction Crystal radios have been around for over 100
years and exist in many different shapes, sizes and
complexities. Some are definitely better than others, but wired
correctly and connected to a good Antenna and Ground wire
system, this simple little AM radio receiver should pull in at
least one strong local radio signal for you to listen in to. In
diagram 1 you can see the basic layout of the 'crystal set'.
They are called crystal sets, as the original designs used a
special material called galena or pyrite, as the detector
element, which picks out the sound wave from the radio wave.
These crystals have been replaced with a modern component called
a diode, and we'll get to use one of those as we put this kit
together.
How it works Signals
from your local AM radio stations are traveling through the
atmosphere at the speed of light, and they pass through just about
everything. These signals hit your antenna wire and induce a small
signal current that flows down into the radio's tuned circuit, and
out through the ground wire, to Earth. The coil, L1 and fixed
capacitor, C1, form the 'tuned circuit' in our project, in
conjunction with the antenna/ground wire system, which enables the
receiver to select one station's frequency and reject the rest. This
may seem like a limitation on the radio, but once you've got this
simple receiver going, you can add one or two more parts in order to
make a 'tunable' version that can tune across part or all of the AM
radio band, for just a couple of dollars more. All you have to do is
swap several parts of differing values around, (included in your
kit,) until you receive a reasonably strong local AM radio station!
Experimenting is half of the fun with these circuits.
The frequency selected by this process is comprised of two parts -
the 'carrier wave' which is the radio station's fixed frequency (its
'spot' on the dial of a transistor radio set) and the 'program
signal' which is the voice, music, secret sound, which originates
inside the radio station's studio. This is the signal that we want,
and the next component, the diode, D1, enables the sound or audio
signal, to be split away from the carrier wave. This is called the 'detector' because it detects the sound signals contained inside the
carrier wave.
Finally, the sound waves that we want are produced in the earphone,
EP, as the diaphragm inside the earphone vibrates in unison with the
signal coming from the diode, returning through the 'link' wire to
ground, and thus completing the second 'detector/earphone' circuit.
Resistor, R1 provides stability for pietzo or crystal earphones, as
these devices need a direct path to ground for them to work properly
and not distort the signal.
Resonance At a chosen frequency a special effect called
"resonance" occurs. This simply means that when the coil and
capacitor working together as the 'tuned circuit' have received
the one particular frequency they were set for, then maximum
power transfer from transmitter to receiver will occur. All
other radio station's signals will be fed out to earth by the
ground wire, and the one you want will be playing away in the
earphone. Our earphone has a special material called 'pietzo
crystal' and when a small signal is fed into the crystal via the
diode and link wire, the crystal will actually vibrate in unison
with the signal. This crystal is flat and round, and is attached
to a larger piece of tinfoil, which vibrates too, reproducing
sound waves that we can hear.
In the diagram at left, you can see the circuit for our
simple AM band crystal radio set. It has just four
components - a capacitor, C1 which together with the next
component, the inductor L1, which stores radio energy and
helps tune the radio to one station. Thirdly, there's the
diode D1, which separates the program signal (the voice,
music, secret sound) from the radio station's transmitting
frequency, and finally, the resistor R1, which forms a
signal return path to ground and provides stability for the
crystal earphone, EP, which changes the electrical signal
coming out of diode D1, into sound waves which we can hear.
Parts Identification And Layout
The
orange or blue coloured fixed capacitor is made of
ceramic material, and consists of two small metallic
plates, separated by the ceramic material. These two
plates store an electrical energy charge between
them, and allow RF (Radio Frequency) energy to pass
through. Small ceramic caps are measured in
picofarads (pF). The coil or inductor, is a larger
cylinder shaped device, with coloured bands to
indicate its value in micro henries (uH). The diode
is a small signal type ( BAT 46 ) and is made of a
special material called silicon. This material
allows the sound or audio signals to pass through to
the earphone, but prevents the carrier wave from
getting through. Finally, the crystal earphone is
connected across the resistor, which is measured in
ohms. This resistor ( a 100K one, marked
brown/black/yellow) provides stability for the
earphone, by siphoning off some of the detected
signal, and feeding it directly to the ground, via
the ground wire.
Building The Radio Receiver
Take
your parts from the packaging, and lay them out on
the work area. Take the printed overlay template
supplied with your kit, and peel off the protective
backing, leaving the 'sticky stuff' exposed. Lay it
on top of the small plastic oblong shaped base,
aligning the edges together, and press the overlay
onto the plastic. Take a sharp metal object (small
jeweler's screwdriver, large pin or needle,) and
make five holes in the material where you see a
large dot. These dots are connection points where
you will push the wires from each component part
through and when they are all in place, you will
then gently twist them together, forming a basic
join. First, place the legs of capacitor C1 through
holes 1 & 2. then take the coil, L1 and push its
legs through holes 2 and 5. Take the diode and push
its legs through holes 2 & 3, and finally take the
resistor R1, and push its legs through holes 3 & 4.
Take the short piece of link wire and push its legs
through holes 4 & 5.
Building The Radio Receiver
Take your
parts from the packaging, and lay them out on the work area. Take
the printed overlay template supplied with your kit, and peel off
the protective backing, leaving the 'sticky stuff' exposed. Lay it
on top of the small plastic oblong shaped base, aligning the edges
together, and press the overlay onto the plastic. Take a sharp metal
object (small jeweler's screwdriver, large pin or needle,) and make
five holes in the material where you see a large dot. These dots are
connection points where you will push the wires from each component
part through and when they are all in place, you will then gently
twist them together, forming a basic join. First, place the legs of
capacitor C1 through holes 1 & 2. then take the coil, L1 and push
its legs through holes 2 and 5. Take the diode and push its legs
through holes 2 & 3, and finally take the resistor R1, and push its
legs through holes 3 & 4. Take the short piece of link wire and push
its legs through holes 4 & 5. When all
four components and the link wire are mounted on the base, in
accordance with the overlay, you can then make the joins by twisting
the wire ends poking through each of the holes, together until they
become tight. Bend them up out of the way, and make sure that none
of the wires from one join are touching other joins. Finally, take
the earphone and cut the 3.5mm plug off the end, carefully strip the
insulation off each wire using a pocket knife or side cutters, and
then twist the wires around the legs of the resistor, R1. Attach
your Antenna and Ground wires, and begin to test out your "Nic Nac
Tic Tac" crystal radio.
Once you've finished testing the radio receiver,
and have successfully received at least one local radio station, you
can then fit the whole base with components attached into the Tic Tac box. Punch holes in the lid for the antenna and ground wire
connections, and a larger one in the other end, for the earphone
wires to protrude through. Mount the parts on the plastic base by
Carefully use a small sharp tool, such as a jeweler's
screwdriver, to make the five holes in the base. Then insert
the wires from each component through the appropriate holes,
and then gently but firmly twist each group of wires up and
underneath the base. Make sure that you insert the earphone
wires in the hole in the back of the Tic Tac box before you
strip the plastic insulation off each wire. Then tie a small
knot in the wire, leaving about 2 cm, and attach the bared
ends those wires to either end of resistor R1, before
enclosing the whole assembly inside the Tic Tac box.
Erecting Antenna And Ground Wires
No simple crystal radio is any good without an
antenna and ground wire system. These two wires must
be erected safely and efficiently, and particular
attention needs to be taken with both wires to
ensure that you and your new radio receiver are both
safe, and are getting the maximum signal strength
that you can obtain.
The Antenna Wire
The antenna wire needs to be
reasonably long, and as high as you can safely place
it. At least 10 to 20 metres in length and around 2
to 3 metres in height as a minimum, taking into
account any power cables or telephone lines in the
vicinity. Metal objects such as poles or frames or
other similar structures can often 'ground' radio
signals, preventing them from reaching your antenna
wire, so you need it to be in as much open space as
possible. Alternatively, you may be able to attach a
short lead to a metal frame or structure (taking
into account your electrical safety, which is YOUR
responsibility,) that is insulated from ground
potential, and any other voltages or currents,
besides radio waves.
If you
have any doubts about the electrical safety of your antenna wire
installation, consult a qualified electrician, or other similarly
qualified person, and remember, DO NOT erect antenna wires near to
electrical power or telephone cables or other structures of a
dangerous nature - check it out first!
Ground Wires
Ground wires are just as important as antenna
wires, as they form part of the same 'front end'
tuned circuit, completing the circuit to ground.
Radio stations transmit their signals through the
atmosphere, but they also travel along the ground
and just underneath I - these are called 'ground
waves' and the ground wire helps to capture them. It
also gets rid of unwanted carrier waves that have
not been selected by the tuned circuit and its
preselected values for coil and capacitor. The best
way to make a solid ground connection, is to find a
cold water tap or pipe with no attached electrical
ground wire system added to it, and bare your ground
wire and wrap about five or six turns of bared
copper wire onto the pipe, and then twist the end of
it around the rest, securing it to the pipe. Use a
metal clamp or bracket, if you think that is
warranted to give you a firmer connection.
Ground wires are
best connected to either a properly installed ground stake (embedded
up to a metre in moist earth) or taken directly to cold water pipes
or backyard taps, that have NO CONNECTION to any of the building's
mains electrical earth wiring. DO NOT use gas pipes or hot water
pipes, as these installations DO NOT go to an electrical ground, and
connecting your ground wire to them may result in shocks or
other unpleasant side effects. Connect ground wires to a safe and
independent electrical ground connection. Once again, if you have
ANY DOUBTS about the safety of a ground wire installation, consult a
qualified electrical parson to ensure that your installation is
safe. AH 2009
Hints & Tips On Getting The Tic Tac
Radio Going
Having problems getting a radio signal? Or are
you getting a signal with lots of noise, hum, clicks and pops in the
earphone? Not able to string up a conventional antenna or ground
wire system? This section is devoted to helping you get the most out
of your crystal radio project. Most people will be able to erect an
antenna or ground wire system either in their back yards, or in a
nearby park or waterfront area. Some people live in dense housing
lots or unit blocks, and it can seem impossible to do the necessary
things in terms of establishing your antenna/ground system.
There are alternatives to the conventional
arrangements, such as using the cold water pipes under your kitchen
sink or bathroom vanity. Using parts of you metal balcony
barrier/fence. These can provide useful levels of signal for simple
radio reception. Make sure though, that
none of your cold water pipes double up as a path to ground for any
240 volt mains wiring, as using this as a ground can be risky. If you end
up with a relatively short antenna you may find that you are getting
a signal or sorts, but it's not loud enough to be satisfied with
that level of sound, as a good result. You can use an extra
component called a 'variable capacitor' between your antenna lead in
wire, and the crystal set itself, to help 'tune in' the antenna.
With simple crystal type receivers, it's important to be able to
'match' the antenna to the set, particularly if the antenna ends up
being a short wire one (one that is less than 10 or fifteen metres
in length, and 2 metres above the ground or less). In the
diagram above, you can see two different types of variable
capacitor. Although the materials, construction and size are
different, the principle of operation is the same. The insulation
between the plates can either be air (the atmosphere) or plastic
materials, such as Mylar. The polyvaricon shown
on the left is a miniature plastic tuning capacitor, found in
most modern pocket transistor radios. The larger one shown on the
right, is made almost entirely of metal, and uses air as an
insulator between the fixed and moving plates, and phenolic material
to keep the fixed plates positioned correctly on the metal frame,
without actually touching it. The idea, is to interpose the variable
capacitor between your antenna wire, and the set, and then "tune in"
the antenna. Don't forget that you've been given a set of parts,
which includes three ceramic (fixed) capacitors and two mini
inductor coils. If you can't get a station with one set of
coil and capacitor, try swapping them around until you get one
talking or playing music in your earphone.
A Word On Crystal Earphones
You will have been supplied a
small pietzo crystal earphone as part of your kit of
parts. These generally speaking give good sound
reproduction, but occasionally they can drop out.
Odd ones are not very good at all and need
replacing. It is the way they are made at the
factory, and also how they are stored and handled.
Sometimes dropping them onto a hard floor surface
can cause the connections inside the earphone to
work intermittently. To fix them up and get them
going again, try blowing down the small earpiece
several times, each time listening to see if full
sound has been restored. If this doesn't work, then
try tapping them on the palm of your hand several
times, each time listening to test the sound.
If you need more help
with this kit, you can contact us, or go onto the
Internet, and try websites like
www.midnightscience.com or
www.theradioboard.com
or just Google the
words "crystal radio set" and see what happens!
AH 2009
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